Rigging up for Bull Sharks.
Everybody who chases bullies have preferences for their rigs, but there are some aspects of a bull shark rig that you simply can’t skimp on. The most obvious is a wire trace – that should be at least 30cm long. The wire is important to the rig because a bull shark’s teeth can cut through monofilament of fluorocarbon.
On the bottom of the rig obviously you need a hook, you will discover how good circle hooks are for catch and release shark fishing. Anything between a 4/0 and a 10/0 size (depending on the size of the sharks you’re going up against) should suffice. These can either be crimped on when using nylon-coated wire, or attached with a Haywire twist. We actually make and sell pre-made rigs also come with the hook already built into the rig.
Above the wire trace, it’s important to have some fairly stiff, abrasion-resistant monofilament or fluorocarbon. Bull sharks, and indeed most sharks have rough, sandpaper-like bodies that can wear through low-poundage lines, so it’s important to have something there that will stand up. In most cases never go any lower than 40lb, in either mono or fluoro, and even then you will occasionally break off on bigger models. Obviously this two-part rig attaches to your mainline.
These are the basics of a shark rig, and optional extras can include various weights, which are used in strong current, and floats, either foam or biodegradable balloons, which I regularly use to keep my baits away from bottom dwellers like catfish.
On the other end, rods and reels will always be personal. You really don't need to over gun with heavy boat rods or anything like that, usually opting for lighter, snapper weight gear is better so you can enjoy the fight. Bull Sharks fight cleanly, and can be knocked over on fairly light gear if you take your time and allow them to run when they want to. As long as there’s good terminal tackle on the shark’s end, you should be able to get them to the boat, kayak, or shore.
Next Article Selecting the right boat
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